Markus Lupfer returned with his signature juxtaposition of structure and softness. Held in Swiss Church, one of London Fashion Week’s most popular spaces, Lupfer adorned the white hall with large black balloons. Previously, Lupfer has mixed strong silhouettes with intricate details and delicate, flowery accessories. For Autumn Winter 2018, Lupfer looks to contrast several materials, clash colours and mishmash textures. The collection is for the woman with an eclectic taste who still wants to carry herself with elegance and grace.
Toffee brown fleeces took inspiration from streetwear with their relaxed shape and striped sleeves. Lupfer’s must-have jumpers returned and where covered with foxes and fawns outlined with threaded multi-colour sequins. Heavy knits were seen throughout, made of Scottish lambswool, in the form of mid-calf length skirts and v neck jumpers. Winter ready coats were also shown, in stripped army green, with large pink and blue scarves. These knits were paired with hand-painted prints and floral jacquards, reminiscent of Johnny Coca’s debut at Mulberry. Faux fur was also a staple within the collection seen in bracelets, the straps of high heels and arm cuffs that looked like leg warmers. Lace was also featured across the midriff and arms of tops along with sequin covered skirts.
A personal highlight was a burnt orange overcoat, which took its sharp and structured shape from utilitarian menswear. The coat was paired with a long flowing scarf, of the same orange pattern, which slowly blended into the coat as it draped down. The finishing touch was a black, plated belt with western inspired fringe and silver buttons.
Looks were completed with oversized faux fur clutches and long, flowery earrings that grazed the model’s shoulders. As usual, Lupfer cast a diversity range of women who encapsulated the beauty of the collection. Hair sat behind ears to expose the length of the earrings and nails were painted to match the primary colours of the collection. To complement the collection, make up was subtle and natural.
Words: Andre Bogues |Fashion Week Press | @andredevb
Images: Andrew Vowles | Fashion Week Photographer