Iconic London showspace, Brewer Street Car Park, was the venue of choice for Emilio De La Morena's SS17 catwalk show. For a brand with fans as famous as Kate Moss and the super stylish Olivia Palermo, the expectations were set very high.
From the outset, a vivid sunset beach theme was present in the colour palette. Rich yellow, hot pink, and electric blue dominated the catwalk - Morena is not a label for the timid. These vibrant hues were balanced with accents in soft pastel trim and footwear.
If the bold colour was not enough, fabrics called out for attention in shiny silk satin and ruffled organza. A play between volume and fit was experimented with throughout. Puffy sleeves, peplums and frills were worn with cinched waists, tapered trousers and form-fitting dresses.
Expert fabric manipulation is a fine nod to Morena's background in sculpture. He has a great eye for form and fit, skilfully balancing out the two. To contrast the voluminous silhouettes, there are delicate slip dresses overlayed with chic lace. This in turn is contrasted once again with outfits made from bundles of netting, gathered in at the waist.
The Morena woman is said to be vibrant, strong and modern as well as elegant and chic. All of these components are present in his SS17 collection. To harmonise the striking aesthetic, there is an element of femininity in the exposed shoulders seen throughout. Whether one-shoulder, cut-outs, or bardot, the shoulders are clearly a focal point for the collection.
A few designs in subtle monochrome bring an elegant aspect to the mix. The fabric has a subtle polka-dot pattern and looks impeccable on a pair of white wide-leg trousers. In black, it is used for a jacket with billowing sleeves, reminiscent of a matador's bolero - perhaps influenced by Morena's Spanish roots.
It is this mix between Spanish artisanship and London's blended style that makes for a cutting-edge label, constantly striving towards innovation.