Things were getting quite sophisticated in the BFW Showspace this morning, with a string quartet welcoming us in to take our seats for Emilio de la Morena AW17 show. But this was no surprise; the designer is renowned for his elegant evening wear and refined aesthetic.
As the models started floating down the catwalk, it became clear that this season he is developing his impeccable style further – every single item fitted like a glove, each one precisely detailed to accentuate different parts of the female form. Dresses are ruffled, shimmying their way along with each step. Trouser suits are metallic and slightly flared, with their tailored jackets finished with flared bottoms. Pleated tops drape just-so into billowing skirts that finish at just the right height above the knee.
Yet this season there is also an element of playfulness running through the collection. Bold colours are mixed in with more subdued wintery shades; tight fitted tops end in balloon sleeves and carefully-placed cutouts add feminine sensuality to the designs.
It is de la Morena’s passion for texture that is perhaps expressed most through this catwalk. His love affair with lace blossoms across the whole collection, adding a touch of detailing her or a glimpse of skin there. Long neon feathers hide behind black tulle to create subtle yet eye-catching skirts, while soft shearling gets a colour pop collar to make cuddly coats.
As the Kennington Quartet build to a crescendo for the final walk and we see the collection all together, it is obvious how well-balanced it is as a whole. Covering all bases, there is something for any occasion, creating outfits that are at once wearable and fashionably dramatic. Combining artistic elements of Picasso with a couture-esque attention to detail, each piece is beautifully thought out to tick all the boxes on next season’s must-have list.