David ‘monochrome’ Koma has won a legion of fans for his trademark style of asymmetric bug-structure combined with a two-tone block colour scheme, and this season certainly didn’t disappoint.
For SS14 the Georgian designer took his inspiration from the ancient form of Japanese archery, Kyudo, creating an aesthetic of a woman who is a strong elegant warrior dressing with balance, stillness and control.
With a flash of white the show kicked off showing pretty white body structured thigh skimming dresses, revealing flashes of shoulders or chest.
Sheer was smart paired with Koma’s favourite marriage of black and white, triangles and diagonal stripes flattered and sculpted the feminine form, shoulders were highlighted in clear sheer to show a hint of vulnerability.
Dusty pink was executed with strong femininity, lowlighting perfect pleats in with black creating a 3D skirt effect, holding the rest of the body together in monochrome triangles and rectangles, as if the female form was designed to be captured in shapes.
The slightly off part of the collection was the Koma’s choice to pair royal with powder blue creating a dress fit for a cheerleader rather than a warrior princess, albeit a very well tailored one.
The collection got progressively darker, more militant and spidery with the introduction of dark blue often framed with leather caged ribs morphing into the eventual black armour of leather shoulder pads mounted on caged sleeves over a fitted black dress revealing the midriff, and panelled skirts cut with flashes of leather.
David Koma’s design apple definitely doesn’t fall far from the tree, it would have been nice to see him experiment outside of his comfort zone of monochrome, but his magic formula is certainly not broke, so perhaps there is no need to fix it.
Words: Tania Willis | Fashion Week Press
Photography: Sebastian McCluskey | Fashion Week Photograher | @mccluskey1