With temperatures soaring thanks to heat diffusing spot lights, a soundtrack featuring the likes of Tune-Yards and Harry Belafonte’s Jump in the Line, alongside a backdrop of palm green platforms and wooden panelling, attendees to the Danielle Romeril SS16 presentation could have been forgiven for thinking they were actually at a party in paradise.
A sea of green, pale pink, black and white met the eye upon entry into the Institute of Contemporary Arts. Titled ‘Paradise Lost’, the collection was heavily focussed on texture, layering and an unusual use of pattern pieces to make edgy and unique outfits. A white shift with palm-tree shaped sheer cut-outs and unfinished clumps of green and brown threads was worn over a black skirt with a racer green stripe and black cotton trousers. While an oversized white cotton jacket was casually tied around the waist of a pretty pink knee length dress that featured bows along the sleeve. Though each outfit and many pieces seemed to be intentionally slightly mismatched in their construction and pairings, each managed to form a strong and beautiful silhouette.
Romeril sought two photography sources to influence her aesthetic. The first was a Jackie Nickerson photographic series centred around African farmers in their layered work attire, while the second was two shots by Viviane Sassen, one of which was also titled ‘Paradise Lost’; the namesake of the collection that provided colour palette inspiration with green foliage, white flowers and a figure against a black background.
Key detailing included large oversized knots, fluted sleeves and a relaxed fit, while fabrics varied between plain colour-blocked cottons and a busy green jacquard embroidery that featured vivid white flowers. However footwear also attracted attention, with every pair forming part of Romeril’s new collaboration with 90’s favourite Kickers. Each sandal design was perfectly suited to accompany the collection, whether they featured a plainer pink nubuck, or rubber soles topped with white raw-fray cut work leather.
Romeril’s textural mix managed to also achieve an elegant edge, making it a go-to collection for those with a fun, unapologetic and creative approach to their summer stylings.