Taking over the Barge House at the OXO Tower this season, the On|Off space at LFW is always the place to go to discover something new, which is exactly what we did when we went to see the CAPLANENTWISLE AW17 presentation. On walking into the industrial-chic room, you could be forgiven to thinking that you’d wandered into a backstage party – models stood around casually chatting and drinking, wine and plastic cups were laid out across the room and polaroids of the looks littered the walls. But this chill vibe was in fact the best way to get up close and personal with the clothes, and to understand exactly what the collection was about.
CAPLANENTWISLE is the latest collaboration from Adam Entwisle and Emma Caplan, a design duo who have been producing collections since 1999. Its debut collection, The Stranger as a Social Type, was a feast of millennial attitude, full of fraying, oversized silhouettes and printed texture.
Bold yellow checks and big stripes appeared across the clothes, paired with moody black backgrounds. The designs put a modern day punk vibe on classic shapes – trousers were baggy and trailing, braces became tops and shirts were thrown on like skirts. All were finished with raw edges and hanging threads, raising the question of how many times we can reinvent something before it starts to fall apart. Hoods were worn up, hair was worn slicked and Converse finished every look, adding to the relaxed yet defiant atmosphere.
With their first collection CAPLANENTWISLE are walking the fine line between artistic exploration and functionality, challenging the very nature of the fashion industry with a series of clothes that can be thrown on and worn without any fuss. Seeing them being worn in real life, hanging out on a Friday evening drinking wine, highlighted both their wearability and vulnerability – the odd spill of red wine could have been disastrous – which was an integration between the designer and consumer that we are looking forward to seeing more of next season.
Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photograher