There have been so many great fashion moments in music, it's easy to see why Parsons educated Ge Yu has found inspiration there for her second collection for her brand Annderstand to be presented as part of the London Fashion Week calendar. Reminiscent of the military stylings of the garage rock revival in The Libertines, the gold brocade and fringing was out in force but softened with sensual velvet and blush hues.
The brand was only launched in 2016, and it's clear that Yu well deserved the attention of the fashion world as one of China's top emerging designers. This collection mixes classic masculine tailoring with edgy cutting - such as a tulip hem on a smoky grey water wave mohair overcoat - creating a clean cut silhouette that would be as appropriate for the office as it would be at an after show party. Feminine detailing from the black heart shaped buttons on an otherwise severe shift dress to the peekaboo glimpse of a black mesh bra under a leopard print coat which was created in collaboration with London designer Misa Wu presents an overall sense of a woman who can confidently command a room with her mere presence. Yet she remains approachable and unafraid to take up a place in the sweaty front row of an underground gig for a band that no one's heard of... yet.
A military cape combines rigid gold embroidery with luxurious navy velvet and black tailored shorts while a neatly tailored white trouser suit creates a sophisticated yet unique look with its zip detailing.
A smart and slick suit is given the Mick Jagger treatment with silver fringing and fluted sleeves while a pyjama style gown is slashed from collar bone to waist then from hip to ankle, presenting a daring take on contemporary London style.
A sheer and shimmering green bomber jacket stands out as a nod to current trends but with the raw ingenuity that makes Annderstand a brand to keep a close eye on in the future. Effortless in the way it intertwines rock 'n' roll sexuality with loose fitting, comfortable separates, the collection is wearable for the day-to-day yet demands the spotlight as only a true rockstar can.
Words: Niki Rooney | Fashion Week Press | United Agents
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photograph | @amiecharlot