The phrase ‘less is more’ is bounced around all too often, however it’s entirely fitting for PIETER’s vision of the modern man. He opts for the easy-to-wear with edgy detailing in evidently high quality fabrics; the kind of pieces that you may not notice immediately but when you do, they’ll ensure a second look, a raised eyebrow, a nod of appreciation. Grey tailored trousers that zip up along the side seams, scarlet red leather strapping that gather in crisp white sleeves, and a black nylon overcoat that boasts a zip in the cuff to conveniently store your travel card in.
Leaning against black rails, staring the audience straight in the eye with chiselled jawlines and not a single hair out of place, Sebastiaan Pieter’s models showcased each outfit in the way its supposed to be worn - with self-assurance. A palette of monochrome, grey, cream and reds featured across a wearable mix of sleek tailoring and contemporary active wear. A jersey top with two zips leading diagonally from the chest to the neck paired with skinny suit trousers, while a baggy hoody was slung on with tight Japanese leather trousers.
The collection’s slightly subversive undercurrent came courtesy of the London-based Dutch designer’s source of inspiration - a photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe. The 1979 shot is titled Brian Ridley and Lyle Heeter and features two men; one standing, one sitting in a leather wing-backed arm chair, surrounded by a conventional living area featuring vases, a table clock and an Oriental rug. Both are entirely clad in black leather, from biker boots and jackets to studded trousers and gloves, with the standing gentleman holding a whip in one hand and chains attached to the collar of the seated gentleman in the other.
Pieter took this juxtaposition and dialed it down with subtle leather tassels, belting and small straps featuring alongside Italian wool flannel overcoats and perfectly-fitting cotton poplin shirts.While two key pieces that referenced gay culture bucked the general understated approach of the collection but still felt coherent; a red knit adorned with the word ‘CRUISE’ and a white tee with ‘HH’ printed on it in black.
Now in his fifth season and with the backing of NEWGEN MEN; the British Fashion Council and Topman-run initiative; Pieter presented a confident and effortless approach to AW16... an array of seemingly timeless pieces that will take any wardrobe stylishly through next season and beyond.
Words: Helen Lovett | Fashion Week Press | @mustardyellowshoes
Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photographer