The phrase ‘less is more’ is bounced around all too often, however it’s entirely fitting for PIETER’s vision of the modern man. He opts for the easy-to-wear with edgy detailing in evidently high quality fabrics; the kind of pieces that you may not notice immediately but when you do, they’ll ensure a second look, a raised eyebrow, a nod of appreciation. Grey tailored trousers that zip up along the side seams, scarlet red leather strapping that gather in crisp white sleeves, and a black nylon overcoat that boasts a zip in the cuff to conveniently store your travel card in.
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Leaning against black rails, staring the audience straight in the eye with chiselled jawlines and not a single hair out of place, Sebastiaan Pieter’s models showcased each outfit in the way its supposed to be worn - with self-assurance. A palette of monochrome, grey, cream and reds featured across a wearable mix of sleek tailoring and contemporary active wear. A jersey top with two zips leading diagonally from the chest to the neck paired with skinny suit trousers, while a baggy hoody was slung on with tight Japanese leather trousers.
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The collection’s slightly subversive undercurrent came courtesy of the London-based Dutch designer’s source of inspiration - a photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe. The 1979 shot is titled Brian Ridley and Lyle Heeter and features two men; one standing, one sitting in a leather wing-backed arm chair, surrounded by a conventional living area featuring vases, a table clock and an Oriental rug. Both are entirely clad in black leather, from biker boots and jackets to studded trousers and gloves, with the standing gentleman holding a whip in one hand and chains attached to the collar of the seated gentleman in the other.
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Pieter took this juxtaposition and dialed it down with subtle leather tassels, belting and small straps featuring alongside Italian wool flannel overcoats and perfectly-fitting cotton poplin shirts.While two key pieces that referenced gay culture bucked the general understated approach of the collection but still felt coherent; a red knit adorned with the word ‘CRUISE’ and a white tee with ‘HH’ printed on it in black.
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Now in his fifth season and with the backing of NEWGEN MEN; the British Fashion Council and Topman-run initiative; Pieter presented a confident and effortless approach to AW16... an array of seemingly timeless pieces that will take any wardrobe stylishly through next season and beyond.
Words: Helen Lovett | Fashion Week Press | @mustardyellowshoes
Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photographer