Phoebe English's SS17 LCM presentation at the BFC show-space was dark and atmospheric, while the models peacefully embroidered, nonchalantly, casual in their manner. It was as if the guests in the room had stumbled upon a moment of personal reflection- as if they were looking in and witnessing the construction of new innovative and thought-provoking ideas.
Phoebe English, renowned for her womenswear collections branched out into menswear in 2015 with the intention of uniting men and women's fashion and building bridges between the two, in order to explore the ways in which each influences the other. Her collections, while constantly borrowing features from previous showcases and evolving them, creates new forms of design that will surely, in time, inspire future collections.
English's line was complete with hooded jackets, long smock tops, shirts and pyjama inspired pieces that complement her aesthetic. She featured over-sized silhouettes and utility wear that serves the principal purpose: to be functional as well as dynamic in design. It shows that English like many designers of the 21st century, is eager to establish new methods of fashion design. Her use of raw and natural materials, only further emphasises the edgy feel throughout the collection, which in turn brings about the idea that menswear doesn't have to be tailored and perfected- its okay if the hems are a bit longer and the look be more utilitarian.
Phoebe English created an edgy and dramatic presentation, her first at LCM, and hopefully the first of many. Her borrowed elements from previous collections creates a patchwork of the strongest elements in her designs and stitches together a story of menswear in today's world. She creates a new uniform for the modern man with minimalism at the heart. From loose fitting pieces to over-sized silhouettes, English challenges typical perceptions of menswear and almost seems to suggest that the new age of design has well and truly arrived.
Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press|
Images: Amie Caswell| Fashion Week Photographer| @amiecharlot