Category: London News

Markus Lupfer returned with his signature juxtaposition of structure and softness. Held in Swiss Church, one of London Fashion Week’s most popular spaces, Lupfer adorned the white hall with large black balloons. Previously, Lupfer has mixed strong silhouettes with intricate details and delicate, flowery accessories. For Autumn Winter 2018, Lupfer looks to contrast several materials, clash colours and mishmash textures. The collection is for the woman with an eclectic taste who still wants to carry herself with elegance and grace.

Toffee brown fleeces took inspiration from streetwear with their relaxed shape and striped sleeves. Lupfer’s must-have jumpers returned and where covered with foxes and fawns outlined with threaded multi-colour sequins. Heavy knits were seen throughout, made of Scottish lambswool, in the form of mid-calf length skirts and v neck jumpers. Winter ready coats were also shown, in stripped army green, with large pink and blue scarves. These knits were paired with hand-painted prints and floral jacquards, reminiscent of Johnny Coca’s debut at Mulberry. Faux fur was also a staple within the collection seen in bracelets, the straps of high heels and arm cuffs that looked like leg warmers. Lace was also featured across the midriff and arms of tops along with sequin covered skirts.

 

A personal highlight was a burnt orange overcoat, which took its sharp and structured shape from utilitarian menswear. The coat was paired with a long flowing scarf, of the same orange pattern, which slowly blended into the coat as it draped down. The finishing touch was a black, plated belt with western inspired fringe and silver buttons.

Looks were completed with oversized faux fur clutches and long, flowery earrings that grazed the model’s shoulders. As usual, Lupfer cast a diversity range of women who encapsulated the beauty of the collection. Hair sat behind ears to expose the length of the earrings and nails were painted to match the primary colours of the collection. To complement the collection, make up was subtle and natural.

 

 

Words: Andre Bogues |Fashion Week Press | @andredevb

Images: Andrew Vowles | Fashion Week Photographer

Fashion loves a slogan – it’s one of the easiest and most effective ways to convey a message through clothing. Amid our current uncertain social and political climate, more and more designers seek to make a statement that goes beyond the fashion. From Dior’s “We should All be Feminists” to Gucci and Balenciaga’s self-riffing logos, slogans have certainly had a resurgence of late. If done well, they can reach iconic status and go down in fashion history – i.e. the likes of Katharine Hamnett. However, if done poorly they can feel forced, disingenuous and meaningless.

 

 

Presented against the backdrop of a mock warehouse, UNDERAGE’s AW18 collection had something to say. Inspired by the punk movement of a bygone era of youth subculture, the collection aimed to capture the zeitgeist through a selection of unisex looks adorned with a range of slogans: “We Are Youth,” “Live Fast Die Young,” “Yada Yada Yada” – garments cried out in bold strokes of red, yellow and gold, expressing a contempt for authority and an aim to celebrate rebellion, nonconformity and self-expression.

 

 

A successful slogan should be witty, intelligent and original – if not thought provoking. It should be something that people feel compelled to display upon themselves as a statement aimed at letting the world know who they are and what they stand for. This was lacking here, slogans felt unimaginative and uninspiring; “Yada Yada Yada” – is this what young people really want to proudly wear as an emblem of their beliefs and identity?

 

 

In a fusion of decades of youth culture iconography, brooding models wore spray painted Doc Marten style boots, conservatively tailored pieces; overcoats, trousers and blazers, juxtaposed with more contemporary pieces; hoodies, puffer jackets and bum bags – all screen printed with skull motifs, mock- devoré metallics and graffiti- esque graphics.

 

 

Titled Riots of Our Own this was UNDERAGE’S reimagining of what someone of a similar mind-set to a 70’s punk would wear today. Capturing the essence of youthful rebellion in a post subculture world – in which fashion has become a lot more homogenised, is no easy feat; but quite literally spelling it out across a selection of garish garments is not quite convincing as a particularly fresh or modern approach. Is this what the youth of today, even those who regard themselves as the most nonconforming, want to wear? The sentiment was there but the execution felt crude and somewhat cliché.

 

 

Words: Lucy Hardy | Fashion Week Writer | @lula_har

Images: Mikayla Miller | Fashion Week Photographer | @mikaylajeanmiller

Blossoming prints are a theme in this seasons addition to Claire Tagg’s AW18 collection. A gentle nudge to the soon to be spring season, as the collection adorns a gentle cascade of orchid and floral prints traversing down and across the clothing in a decorative and light manner with some bold colour clashes thrown in between, with the clothing primarily focused on the effect of colour against its neutral white or singular colour base coat.

 

The show space itself even reflects the gentle and subtle themes of Claire’s work, as the models embrace the stage to be fawned over by the and photographers and voyeurs alike. Accompanied by the eloquent compositional music of Ludovico Einaudi’s Divenire, the show set a subtle scene of peacefulness and serenity that reflected the clothing.

 

 

Although Tagg’s collection did feature a few themes of vibrancy, particularly with kimonos and accessories such as flowery hoop earrings (which by the way, we think are really cool).

 

 

The collection itself featured a mixture of subtle pastel colours with splashes of colour blocking thrown into the clothing ranging from hand tied crop tops adorned with sequins to the previously mentioned kimonos, longer length skirts that flow with effortless grace and some avant-garde half coats sustained by straps, accompanied with draping forearm wraps.

 

Surrounded by an all-white stage, it is clear to see how Tagg’s influence has stemmed from the transition and beauty arising from the the development of flowers during the spring and autumnal seasons with the nude and natural makeup palette on the models allowing for the clothing to essentially speak for itself. The models essentially look heavenly while adorned in the clothing, with themes of innocence and virginal beauty lending a developmental story to the collection about the growth of nature as the models descend from the stage in a graceful manner to manoeuvre around the hungry crowd.

 

Words: Nathan Mills | Fashion Week Press

Images: Megan Love | Fashion Week Photographer | Website

Fyodor Golan's AW18 London Fashion Week collection was a high-flying, yet utterly down-to-earth showcase of motion and colour. The creative duo, who are known for their experimental flair, this time drew their new season concept from the sky. Rainbows inspired the aesthetics and colour scheme, while hot air balloons influenced the dynamic movements of every piece. The show, In collaboration with MTV, struck a youthful chord proving that leisurewear is constantly being adopted and adapted by each generation.

 

With planets and orbs decorating the showspace, this was certainly one collection that hoped to elevate edgy styles to new heights. The retro 1980s feel of the collection was injected with a spectrum of colour that exuded a thoroughly playful spirit. Pleated skirts layered over tracksuits challenged the traditional rules of luxury leisurewear while preaching the Fyodor Golan X MTV attitude of being young, adventurous and original.

 

 

Fyodor Golan's ethos of always achieving new modes of motion was enhanced by the literal and metaphorical idea of hot air balloons. Sweeping dresses with gathered hems Vs fluent tracksuits moved with a light and effortless breeze, poised to take flight. The collection is also prepped for the Autumn/Winter season, with chunky knits and over-sized jackets.

 

 

The show succeeded in creating ready-to-wear fashion that is ready to reach unlimited heights and still, it came across as accessible to anyone.

 

Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press|

Images: Martina Bruno | Fashion Week Photographer | @martinabrunoph

 

How was your 2017? Happy to see the back of it or ready to carry on rolling into 2018 with your great attitude and great luck?

We have a handful of new years resolutions to make our year go swimmingly. We'll be doing more in and about London town, working harder and also giving our luck a go with www.swankybingo.com . We started playing Bingo last year as a fun and funny night out but now that it's a little colder and everyone's on dry January (ruling out nights out) or Veganuary (making a good restaurant that little bit harder to find) why not curl up on the sofa instead and try your hand at a bit of cosy indoor Bingo?

We want to know how you get on so give us a shout on the Socials if you have any big wins!