Category: London News

A brand synonymous with cashmere, Johnston’s of Elgin proves its all-year-round appeal with a stunning spring/summer collection – the first in the brand’s history.

Held inside The Waldorf Hilton’s beautiful Palm Court, the latest collection showcased a new dimension using cutting edge knit innovations and lightweight textilesexpertly adapting their designs to suit the warmer months.

Cashmere silk and cotton pieces in a tropical palette of pastels, hot pink, lemon and electric blue were used for both men’s and womenswear. A stand-out women’s jumpsuit drew attention with its vivid shade of deep blue and classic stripe detailing.

Every fabric used is unique to the brand with cashmere woven in the company’s mill in Elgin on the banks of the River Lossie and knitwear created in the Border town of Hawick. In its quest to further its commitment to sustainability, the brand is working tirelessly with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance – which Johnston's of Elgin helped to fund and launch.

The spring/summer 19 collection explored three concepts – the first of which was high summer. Tissue weight mesh constructions lent a delicate air to the looks.  Cashmere dresses and cropped trousers were impossibly light whilst playing with volume. Fluid and effortless shapes in kimono cuts and pyjama styles contributed to a relaxed and super luxe feel.

The second concept looked at warm climates. Whole garment technology was used to create clothing with fewer seams, resulting in a much cleaner and cooler look. These were woven in a distinct species of cotton with the most luxurious and precious fibres and set new benchmarks for craftsmanship and cooling comfort.

For the third concept, sophisticated cruise-inspired pieces in timeless hues were constructed in cotton merino double face fabrics. This concept also includelight and easy outerwear and oversized cardigans in ribbed styles, perfect for the chill of early spring.  

Creative Director, Alan Scott said “It is an honour to return to London Fashion Week for a second season. This unique collection, lovingly made in Scotland, retains our signatures of textile expertise, craft and tailoring for which we have become world renowned, whilst showing the fashion world – for the very first time – that the brand is for all seasons.” It’s fair to say that Johnston’s of Elgin has firmly established that.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Eloise Peachey |Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeacheyphoto

 

 

Edeline Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Always elegantly disciplined, designer Edeline Lee injected some vibrant, dance fuelled joy into her LFW Spring/Summer 2019 show. Deploying any form of dance presentation at fashion week can be a risky affair, however, for Lee all the energy and movement simply showcased her appetite for freedom. Lee believes that "As a designer, I view myself to be in service to women, helping them to be well within their selves and giving them tools to construct and express their identities to the outside world."  She also backed up this committed with impeccable cutting and dynamic prints.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

Amongst all the music, fun and action it was clear that her SS19 collection marked another bold step forward for this fast rising designer. Charged with ruffles and flounces, Lee used these to create movement with a positive spin. "Fashion is a playground for experimentation with performance and identity," she shared. This meant enlisting uplifting, powerful colours such as scarlet and ochre to ultimately bypass too girlie a summer look.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

With dance legends including Trajal Harrell and Pina Bausch as inspiration she kept exploring the relationship between functionality and femininity.  Featuring 28 looks, Lee's energy refused to plateau and hit an even more playful note by introducing a bold zig-zag pattern. Her off kilter colour choices of  brown and green played off against scarlet, blue, ivory and ochre proved again that this collection was designed for women with character and quirk.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

The use of ruffles and ruching became a precision point operation that involved either tiny, pin-hemmed versions or scrunched ruffles and eventually voluptuous, doubled and rolled flounces.Even Lee's shoes were given the ruffle effect.

Lee appreciates that her muse, 'the future lady' as she like to call her "is searching for and assuming diverse identities for different moments in their lives." Lee arms this journey with beautifully cut dresses and skirts that have enough fashion intelligence to also deliver movement and ease.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

During LFW there has been much discussion about empowering fashion. But for Lee, like her brand, it’s about arming oneself for the female journey and using fashion as one's passport.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Imagery: Benjamin Tietge 

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

Malene Oddershede Bach presented a compelling garden of earthly delights for her Spring/Summer 2019 show. Bach is a master of juxtaposing tensions, and for SS19 she explored the dynamic between feminine clothing defined with tomboyish details.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

The push and pull between masculine and feminine energies is a powerful theme. And it gave her LFW show a certain intrigue.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

Staged against a background of botanicals at the historical Ennismore Sessions House, there was an eerie beauty that fell upon the show. One couldn’t help wonder what lies beneath Bach's delicate floaty floral prints and stunning red carpet creations? For the Danish-born designer, there is always something modern and complex even to her most romantic dresses.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

She also charged ahead to include practical classic British stables such as shirt-dresses, PVC rain hats and rain macs. In Bach’s world a woman can never be too prepared. Especially when she doesn’t want to be compromised from wearing Bach’s luxurious jacquards and meticulous floral embroideries.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

The London based designer was ever diligent in innovating her brand - whether through new fabrications or playing with such urban staples as bomber jackets.

But it was the haunting focus on intricately embroidered Icelandic poppies that gave Bach's show its real  meaning. Poppies appear fragile, and yet sustain against all environmental odds. Bach understands beauty can survive even the harshest conditions and she insured every one of her SS19 creations showed that strength.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press
Images: Chris Yates

 

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Roberta Einer’s trademark hypnotic beads, sequins and prints where out in force for her SS19 collection. It’s her radiant magpie aesthetic that first caught the fashion industry’s affections, but now this fast-rising designer has boldly changed frequency again.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

It takes a certain poetic courage to pour so much compassion into a collection, but Einer did just that. As her LFW collection linked along the runway, it was clear Einer wanted to bring to the surface a new womanly integrity whilst never loosing site of her playful embellishments and hand-embroidery decoration.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

What comes first for Einer, being a global citizen or a fashion designer? Her Estonian upbringing and love of 70's Moroccan culture certainly are an influences, as too living in London. It’s the 25-years-old's melting pot of life experiences that insured her SS19 collection could only be a maximist success.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Her personal influences found their way onto the runway in the form of bags like precious Moroccan rug, easy hoodies, lightweight cocktail dresses and pyjama style layers.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

But it was the quieter moments when 70's inspired knitwear appeared, their colours as though a fading Moroccan summer set, that were as rewarding as her gorgeous sequin hybrids.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Created in collaboration with knitwear designers Alice Lee and Kate Brittain, they were the perfect calming moment in the show. As too, the easiness of wrap ground skirts and the breezy silhouettes brought a gentle balance to the sequins and beads.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Much has been written about Einer’s previous internship experience at Alexander McQueen, Balmain and Mary Katrantzou. But its her own daring, experimental designs that continue to climb to new personal heights, and we all want to go on the journey with her.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Photos: Martina Bruno 

 

 

 

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Like a Twilight Zone daydream humming away in the backs of our minds, Starsica walked a surreal line for SS19. Designer Ike Seungik Lee’s collection was a strange cocktail of synthetic and distorted retoesque glamour.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

It was a beautiful and compelling collection and the models enjoyed themselves clicking away to cool jazz. Charming indeed, but still hypnotic, as Lee explored how fashion is defined and invented through the prisms of television and social media.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Like the perfect wardrobe for a surreal cocktail party there were dramatically cut shoulders and sleeves. Amongst floating multi-tiered dresses of serene pastels and tropic prints, occasionally a shot of plastic appeared.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

One standout was a plastic coat covered with sticker images in the Fornasetti style of Roman busts.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Lee didn’t censor his imagination, nor its media memories. Rather, it was an interesting play on tensions; with exaggerated The Jetsons-like dresses and dollops of irresistible accessories, including funky handbags and earrings.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

As models wafted down the runway in these exaggerated silhouettes one wondered had Lee indulged in some brightly coloured “mother’s little helpers”?  Indeed, Lee is the perfect enabler for our fashion addictions, and with so many sumptuous dresses, don’t expect him to wake us if we OD.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Images: Simon Armstrong