Category: LONDON FASHION WEEK

First comes love, then comes marriage -  then comes baby in a baby carriage. Old nursery school rhyme, or a foreshadowing of the natural progression of Ryan Lo’s most recent collections? As we return to London Fashion Week for another season, what better way to open proceedings than with this WJ London favourite and his fantastical interpretation of romance, tradition and the even the British monarchy - whether in a past century, or the next.

After delivering a memorable proposal for SS19 (whereby Lo invited us to observe a romantic tale that culminated in a princely “I do”), this season’s autumn/winter offering saw the story pick up at its next chapter: a right royal birth. There definitely felt like there was an element of cosmic timing at play, what with the media’s current thirst for information on the next addition to the British monarchy, but Ryan’s opening pram push was the stuff of a dystopian fairy tale. No blue for a boy, pink for a girl here: just lashings of mourning black, British pomp and traditional Victoriana details.

Across his catalogue of work, the explosive frenzy and candy pink colour of Kawaii culture often juxtaposes the dark and glamorous, whilst his fondness for childhood motifs jars with his creative vision for the future. That’s what’s so exciting about Lo: his duality. Hailing from Hong Kong but London-based by desire, Lo playfully dances between curious contrasts and opposites to create his own twisted fantasy world. It was a far cry from Lo’s usual hyper-feminine frills and frothiness, but this dichotomy was still at the epicentre of the entire collection, with these different locations playing a key part.

Despite a stiff-upper-lip entrance of the new royal parents and a more gothic tone to the collection, there was plenty of Lo’s cute and whimsy to satisfy his diehard fans. Pink tulle featured, accessorised with Royal Guard bearskin hats, reimagined in bubblegum pink, feathers and fluff by none other than Phillip Jones. Corset lace front dresses in virginal white were befitting of a princess, whilst quilted coat dresses, brocade coordinates and ruffled collars were undoubtedly Mother of Bride worthy in some alternative world.

Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Editor | @camillamcleanhunt
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegalouise

Mimpikita is a designer label founded by three inspirational females, who all come from different backgrounds. Their work celebrates the diversity of women, as they come together to bring unique styles and ideas that are motivated by all their different cultures. And their AW19 runway certainly encompassed all of these qualities.

It was no doubt an incredibly uplifting show to watch, as models walked down the runway to Whitney Houston’s 'How Will I Know' and 'I Want To Dance With Somebody', in designs that were vibrant, fun and cheerful. The pieces were hyper feminine, with floaty dresses, pastel colours, clashing prints and turtleneck tees filling out the runway.

The looks embodied a nostalgic, summery feel, using the popular layering trend to make these sunny pieces Autumn/Winter appropriate. There was a great sense of balancing beauty with comfort in these pieces, as the dresses and skirts dropped loosely and freely, donning less fitted tailoring whilst staying true to the female form.

The recurring abstract floral print became a theme throughout the show, enhancing the femininity of the soft silhouetted designs. Plaid prints were often paired up with these florals, as the clashing of patterns worked heavily in favour of many of these looks.

The use of turtlenecks was smart, operating both to cover up flesh for a more conservative attire and to turn a summer dress into something more suitable for the colder seasons. They heightened every look, particularly in the final piece that hit the runway. A stunning peach gown with charming embroidered flowers and a pink-mesh underlayer was paired up with a navy turtleneck, and it was by far the star of the show.

The uniqueness of the show came from the creation of designs being aimed towards women of all cultures, backgrounds and religions. It felt fresh, current and heartfelt; every look would guarantee to make you smile and you were made to feel welcome, inspired and hopeful. Mimpikita is definitely a designer to keep on your radar.

 

Words:  Magda Kaczmarska | Fashion Week Press | @_magda__

The highly anticipated Pam Hogg show was as fashionably late as ever. But it's always worth the wait.

The designer, known for her trademark catsuits and skintight dresses took a more romantic turn for spring/summer 2019. The collection, named 'Dr Hogg's Fantastic Fabulon' was a techni-colour dream, with hazy silhouettes in soft shades and frivolous frills.

Extravagant head pieces threatened to topple the models as they demanded attention from their sheer height. Explosions of tulle burst from skirts, sleeves and even shoes. These candy coloured frills in pink, yellow and baby blue were in contrast to large areas of exposed skin.

In keeping with the otherworldly theme, eyelashes were elongated down the cheek, creating an eery doll-like look.

A sensational show that was made to entertain, dazzle and impress. Pam Hogg proves her creative mastermind once again.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Martina Bruno | Fashion Week Photographer

Malaysian designer, Cassey Gan, clearly has an eye for geometry. A lively and vibrant palette in bold prints embodies her spring summer 2019 collection, revealed at Fashion Scout's show at Freemason's Hall.

In reaction to Malaysia's altering political scene, the bright and colourful aesthetic stands for her hopeful and optimistic spirit. Inspired by David Hockney's sixties pop art, Cassey Gan uses strokes of colour and print-on-print to create a sense of controlled chaos, reminiscent of Hockney's work.

For the first time in 60 years, Malaysia has seen a change of government; and with change comes uncertainty. To rival this feeling of unease, Cassey Gan has focused on the bright future that this could bring for younger generations with the spirit of nationalism and patriotism demonstrated throughout the entire country.

Having grown up in a country that is very diverse in culture, the designer is accustomed to being inclusive. She always designs with customers of all races and different sizes in mind. This outlook is also apparent at her shows, using a diverse range of models.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Eloise Peachey |Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeacheyphoto

Glistening, glittering, magical. Paula Knorr's dazzling collection for spring/summer 19 was designed to take your breath away.

With a showstopping presentation held at 180 The Strand, this German designer pulled out all the stops with her expert draping and cutting skills, having honed them at Peter Pilotto, after graduating from the prestigious Royal College of Art.

For SS19, Knorr plays with the contrast between volume and fitted silhouettes. Body-con off-the-shoulder ruffled styles are juxtaposed with oversized cape contours and fluidity.

Along with soft crepe and shiny metallic lame, fabrics like lightweight jersey are used, fused with Swarovski crystal embroidered mini-dresses. Crystal banding is also present on draped shift dresses, creating movement at the hem.

Illusion tulle is printed with glittery clouds to create translucent textures. Sequins are interwoven with light cotton for a summery feel.

The colour palette combines soft pastels with warm pink, orange and steel blue. A dreamy combination to match the statement jewellery pieces created in collaboration with design duo, Rathel & Wolf.

Every look demands attention; each as stunning as the next.

A truly elegant and feminine collection of irresistible eveningwear glamour.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography