Author: Sunna Naseer

Fashion designer turned journalist from London. @sunna_naseer http://www.inspiredinthecity.wordpress.com

Many of us dream of the perfect body. At Fashion Week, our traditionally accepted form of beauty is apparent, with beautifully perfect models and celebrities floating around like ethereal creatures.

This season however, Teatum Jones had a very different idea. They took the "perfect" body and they destroyed it, deconstructing and remoulding it in unconventional ways. Despite this, the result was something just as beautiful.

The concept materialised after the design duo delved into the work of artist, Hans Bellmer. Creating a series of mutated doll forms, Bellmer rejected the cult of the ideal body that was prominent in Germany at the time.

Teatum Jones adopted this approach for AW17 by creating awkward, asymmetrical silhouettes and playing with volume, tension and restriction. The wearer can choose to tighten, loosen, tie or lengthen the garment to work on their individual body shape.

Along with this, a powerful statement was made through the diverse use of models, some with amputated arms or legs. This strengthened the statement that beauty comes in all forms - imperfection can be just as beautiful as perfection.

Signature pieces such as oversized coats and column formal dresses were torn away, revealing cutaways or reconstructed using sheer inserts. Large eyelets were used to re-fasten split seams and this tied-up look continued in the strapped waists and long tapes. Bell sleeves hid the hands, oversized collars exaggerated the neckline and hemlines sat anything but straight.

The theme continued in the imperfect prints that were hand painted onto silk satins and British heritage wools by artist, Tom Leamon. This collaboration uses tonal coloured paints and energetic markings to explore the concept of wearable art.

These pieces were teamed with an array of textiles such as grid mesh, organza and fine mohair encased inside a protective PVC coating.

These stunning designs were clearly made with a sense of purpose. They had a whole lot to say, woven into their very fabrics. From the construction, the deconstruction and the silhouette, to the models that walked proud, Teatum Jones' AW17 collection was dressed to impress.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

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Stood with attitude - hoods up - on top of a series of speakers, the models at Michiko Koshino's LFW Men's presentation look fitting considering the pouring rain outside. With hands in pockets, crossed arms and tattoos on show, this lot are not to be messed with.

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Instantly recognisable as the brand's signature are the range of blow-up jackets that can be worn both deflated or puffed up. This brilliant experimental streak is what launched Koshino's career in the 1990s as one of the first Japanese designers to break into Europe. Her new way of thinking was a refreshing contradiction to the designs of the time.

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For AW17, monochrome looks are styled in block colour. But bright piping in white and red runs around the edges of the relaxed silhouettes, breaking the outfits into separate pieces.

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Noticing the clever construction, it is clear that Koshino has a deep understanding of form - she is a master pattern cutter by trade. Longline jackets can be pulled in at the hip with a drawstring, seams can be undone with zips, and arms can come through sides instead of armholes. This clothing is clearly meant to encourage the wearer's imagination.

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Koshino reminds us once again what it means to be innovative in fashion. It's no wonder that stars as big as Stella McCartney, Moby and David Bowie call her a favourite.

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Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Eloise Peachey |Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeachey

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A line of gentlemen in black stand striking against the light wood panelling behind. Looking smooth, suave and sophisticated, there's no mistaking the Velsvoir man.

Inside Mayfair's opulent Westbury Hotel, Velsvoir unveil 'Nightfall,' a collection celebrating the rich decadence and beauty of darkness. In this block colour palette, everything looks sleek, sharp and cohesive.

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From afar these figures cast a mysterious silhouette, one tall shadow of a man. But up close, the eye is drawn to finer details revealing expert craftsmanship and taste.

There is a strong focus on texture. Fabrics are chosen to harmonise against each other yet create a distinct barrier between pieces. This is achieved through the use of matte and silky finishes.

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Knitted polo-necks are worn under tailored blazers in subtle brocade patterns. Slim-fit trousers are styled with dapper monk-strap shoes. However, a contemporary fur lined cape provides a diversion from the traditional gentleman's look.

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For this LFWM season, we are also treated to a first from the brand - their debut into nightwear. A full pin-stripe pyjama suit glimmers under the dim lights. A smart dressing gown is styled as a coat over shirt and trousers. And a luxuriously opulent smoking jacket offers something a little fancier.

'Nightfall' is an overall tempting collection, promising a life of extravagance for the wearer.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

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Walking into a derelict studio at BFC showspace, 180 The Strand, I was instantly confronted with the blank faced models at Tourne de Transmission's LFWM presentation. Stood stock-still against a backdrop of expressionist prints, the scene reminded me more of an art exhibition than a fashion show.

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As I stood there reading the messages and slogans amidst the clothing, I was forced to ponder the concept behind the latest collection, "Nowhere." This doesn't come as much of a surprise, as the brand has a penchant for mixing words with visuals to generate a message.

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The figures cut an androgynous silhouette, with loose-fitting garments layered in a relaxed and casual way. Sleeves fell past the wrist, baggy trousers crumpled above the ankle and hems sat asymmetrically in raw-edge finishes.

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There was a hint of punk/rock influence coming through from the red tartan, black boots, buzz cut hair, and predominantly dark colour palette. This was mixed with streetwear to form a subtly different aesthetic from the coming together of two sub-cultures.

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Hoodies, shirts and jumpers were layered under coats and weatherproof jackets. One key piece mimicked the same expressionist brush strokes found in the hanging prints around the room.

Textures were used to create contrasts between pieces. Checks, stripes and weatherproof materials sat against jersey, marled knit and frayed edges.

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Altogether the collection cohesively brought together a mix of influences in art, music and culture. For a brand that's only four years old, Tourne de Transmission are delivering their message, loud and clear.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

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Iconic London showspace, Brewer Street Car Park, was the venue of choice for Emilio De La Morena's SS17 catwalk show. For a brand with fans as famous as Kate Moss and the super stylish Olivia Palermo, the expectations were set very high.

From the outset, a vivid sunset beach theme was present in the colour palette. Rich yellow, hot pink, and electric blue dominated the catwalk - Morena is not a label for the timid. These vibrant hues were balanced with accents in soft pastel trim and footwear.

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If the bold colour was not enough, fabrics called out for attention in shiny silk satin and ruffled organza. A play between volume and fit was experimented with throughout. Puffy sleeves, peplums and frills were worn with cinched waists, tapered trousers and form-fitting dresses.

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Expert fabric manipulation is a fine nod to Morena's background in sculpture. He has a great eye for form and fit, skilfully balancing out the two. To contrast the voluminous silhouettes, there are delicate slip dresses overlayed with chic lace. This in turn is contrasted once again with outfits made from bundles of netting, gathered in at the waist.

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The Morena woman is said to be vibrant, strong and modern as well as elegant and chic. All of these components are present in his SS17 collection. To harmonise the striking aesthetic, there is an element of femininity in the exposed shoulders seen throughout. Whether one-shoulder, cut-outs, or bardot, the shoulders are clearly a focal point for the collection.

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A few designs in subtle monochrome bring an elegant aspect to the mix. The fabric has a subtle polka-dot pattern and looks impeccable on a pair of white wide-leg trousers. In black, it is used for a jacket with billowing sleeves, reminiscent of a matador's bolero - perhaps influenced by Morena's Spanish roots.

It is this mix between Spanish artisanship and London's blended style that makes for a cutting-edge label, constantly striving towards innovation.

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Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer

Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photography | @mvw_photographer