Author: Andrea McCaul

The Berthold presentation was held in a dark room and made up of a rotation of models walking down the catwalk, followed by five minutes of them standing in formation showcasing the collection.

The studio walls were covered by photographs of scratches, scars and stitches, whilst the floor of the catwalk was scattered with bottles creating the runway for the models, complementing the inspiration for this collection, named ‘Asylum’.

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The Berthold AW17 collection explores the rhythm of restriction. Wide, desolate hospital corridors and angular shadows inspired a larger, relaxed silhouette for both the tunics and winter coats. Some of the models emerged with thick, rough bandages wrapped around their heads, masking identities. Taut body gloves were worn over the wide leg trousers and the sportif jackets had elongated, exaggerated sleeves. Both the elbows on the bombers and skinny trousers were split open, creating a coherent look throughout.

The colour palette was a simple one, head to toe black, white and burgundy were the only three shades used. Fuzzy and crisped textures were taken from torn, soft leather and papers which created an aged finished to the clothing. Felted wools and pitted technical fabrics were paired with fluffy mohair and easy cotton suiting, creating a consistent feel throughout the collection, pulling the chosen three hues together effortlessly.

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Raimund Berthold is well known for his utilitarian use of colours and silhouettes free from defined shapes, this collection most certainly followed that theme.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

Malan Breton showcased his collection, titled Psyche, at Fashion Scout in Freemason Hall this season. Originating from Taipei, Taiwan Malan Breton founded his brand in 2005. His collections are shown each season at New York Fashion Week, while also being presented in New York, Taiwan, China, France and London to retailers.

Breton has been designing since the tender age of 11, he “is self taught and never went to design school”, now that is what you call talent!

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Both women and men stepped out on the runway to show London exactly what the Malan Breton brand had to offer across the board. Complementing each other effortlessly, the men and women walked out in pant suits, bold blazers and capes. Statement floral prints and heavily embellished beading head to toe made this collection one to be in awe of, with an original yet coordinated feel.

Something that struck me about this collection was how the models made as much of an impression walking away as they did walking in. If you’re looking for an outfit that is as striking from the back as it is from the front, this is the collection for you.

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Black, blue, red and dark green hues are contrasted with soft pinks, whites and creams. One of my favourite pieces being the floral print ruffled dress with a flowing trail, that followed the model walking down the catwalk so elegantly.

Something that made this show even more special was towards the finale a beautiful singer appeared performing 'Climb Every Moutain', shortly joined with Malan Breton himself.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam

Images: Mel Wills | Fashion Week Press | @mvw_photographer

Sadie Clayton showed her SS17 collection at the Royal Academy of Arts, and it was a model-free presentation. The designs were all tied up around the room accompanied with holographic screens showing women wearing and moving around in the clothing. It was a great opportunity to get a real feel for the fabrics while seeing the holographic images wearing them at the the same time.

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This SS17 collection takes Clayton’s on-going analysis of the idea of headspace and the notion of time to another level. She doesn’t just investigate the constraints of time and endless search for creating headspace, but also embraced a visual representation of her work through the holographic technology used throughout the presentation. She used this technology along with lighting to depict the speed at which we live various moments in our life - from the frantic chaos to stillness and peace of mind we experience in day to day life.

This inspiration was unmistakable throughout this presentation, with all the visuals supporting her vision. Clayton’s signature bomber jackets were featured but enhanced by working with new textiles (including latex in collaboration with Kim West), as well as new tonal embroidery and embossing techniques. This process was used for the parka jackets in this collection as well, both creating a quirky twist on classic styles.

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Another signature from Clayton is her copper fabrics which were not forgotten in this collection. With the only other colours being white, blue or black, they helped the copper fabrics stand out beautifully.

Futuristic style jacket, dresses, coats and shorts make up this collection, every piece creating a statement look that can't be ignored.

Words & Images: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press|@andreaelizam

 

Phoebe English, a luxury womenswear label, takes inspiration often from abstract origins. This season she decided to focus on the post-brexit reaction. This process inspired Phoebe English to create a seven piece collection, each design individually acting as a metaphor for what she felt surrounded the post-brexit feeling.

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Standing in a line, each model represented a different feeling or event Phoebe English felt emcompassed post brexit, all in an expressive and originally thought out way. An archer standing next to bunches of apples signified shock; a water bearer pouring water from a jug represented crying; a swashbuckling smugger symbolised lying; the enquirer with a stamp standing next to rolls of paper was the truth hunter; a strangler knotting ropes signified anxiety; and lastly a veiled mourner holding flowers expressed a feeling of loss. Each design was so well thought out from the clothing to the props each were accompanied with.

Black and white hues make up the majority of the colour palette, with gold and blue stripes thrown in. Slogans, being a style you won’t be able to stay away from this season, were slipped in. Only seen when you got close up, they included the word ‘travesty’ and 'all proportions are distorted by a small percent’. Asymmetric cuts and layering was something each piece had in common, with all these little touches turning stand alone metaphorical design come together into a stand out collection.

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All of Phoebe English’s designs are made exclusively in England, with uncompromising detail from start to finish. This ready to wear collection being no exception.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press|@andreaelizam

Images: Amie Charlot| Fashion Week Photography|@amiecharlot

APU JAN, a London based designer, showcased at Fashion Scout in Freemason Hall as the brand has done for many years now. Best known for integrating fiction-inspired designs with unique knitwear techniques, APU JAN uses literary themes helping their clothes to appear both real and surreal simultaneously.

Before the catwalk even started, you could hear a photographer howling at the back: “Can the lady with the huge heels please move…the lady on the phone…yeah thank you!” London Fashion Week problems, and now that was sorted we could start…

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Inspired by Shakespeare’s 'A Midsummer Night’s Dream', this collection ‘An Ancient Summer Night’s Dream’, gave its own take on the fantastical magic that makes this Shakespearean play so well loved. Florals, fossils, stripes all designed in an originally abstract way, made up the prints on the flatteringly and flowing silhouettes.

Blue, black and grey shades created the simplistic colour palette, with one mint green design gracing the runway. Taking nothing away from the designs, the hues helped them blend together with ease as they were walked down the catwalk. A contemporary twist was applied to the well established knitwear, APU JAN designed sheer and cut out pieces that fitted effortlessly into this collection. Not forgetting the matching sets, ruffled dresses, midi coats, balloon skirts and culottes that combine traditional and oriental elements with a modern twist; the hallmark of the APU JAN brand.

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Half way through the runway we all started to take notice of the DJ sitting directly behind me, mixing while playing the flute it added a unique touch to the show that I had never seen before at LFW. Earning him a special round of applause after the finale.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press|@andreaelizam

Images: Amie Charlot| Fashion Week Photography|@amiecharlot