Author: Andrea McCaul

Rohmir is celebrating 10 years in high fashion with her AW17 collection. Born of Russian nobility, Olga Roh began the Swiss luxury fashion brand in 2007 after studying for her masters at Istituto Marangoni in London and PhD at the University of Bern. Heavily influenced by her journeys around Europe, this range was dedicated to Spain.

Titled “El Castillo Secreto: A Magic Journey”, the catwalk started with a video that showcased part of this journey. The film showed models walking through beautiful countrysides and castle grounds, before the lights came up in the Freemason hall and the flamenco dancer came out. Dancing to the music he set the scene before the models joined him on the catwalk.

A luxurious baroque design in velvet, lace and chiffon fabrics alike made up a lot of the pieces, with flares, ruffled sleeves, dresses and capes all taking on this statement style. Not forgetting the mix of knitted, tasseled and sheer fabrics, that added charm throughout the collection.


Every aspect was thought of, from the pearl trim hats and roses hair clips to the flamenco inspired makeup, fitting into the theme of the collection effortlessly. The colour palette featured reds, golds and blacks, creating a real statement throughout.

This Spanish collection was truly special and the catwalk was like nothing you’d seen before, every detail faultlessly following the theme.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Jessamine Cera | Fashion Week Photographer | @jessamineceraphoto

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Theo VII Studios was co-founded by three designers; Miao Ho, Yui Ding and Tan Xue Yi in 2015 and works at breaking barriers between gender. The concept is to create a harmony between menswear and womenswear elements. This aesthetic of the label’s combination of womenswear and menswear was set because the co-founders are from womenswear and menswear respectively, so it only makes sense!

Their AW17 collections takes inspiration from Shamanism, an exercise that involved a practitioner reaching altered states of consciousness in order to interact with the spirit world, and then channeling these transcendental energies into the world.

A Shaman has access to, and influences in the world of both good and evil spirits, practicing divination and healing in order to help people around them.

Theo VII Studios was inspired by every aspect of the Shamans supernatural world, their dress, accessories, headwear, their rituals and rich cultural histories, which are all one of a kind. Each Shamans robe tells it’s own story, as they mark them to celebrate the knowledge they gain from each ritual they perform and every place they travel. Theo VII Studios explores all of this through their AW17 collection.

They use a combination of bright yellows, rich purples and blues set against pale pinks and creams to make up this unique collection. Every detail from the tassel trims to embellished socks show that all aspect have been carefully thought out and designed to perfection.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

Apu Jan is the designer that brings knitwear dreams to life. A contemporary London based womenswear label, Apu Jan is rich in innovative knitwear techniques. Each and every season this designer creates a fantasy world, inspired by different literature. His AW17 collection “From Here To There”, is a visual journey through a collection of doors from this world to the other side of the universe.

Apu’s designs are shaped by traditional oriental silhouettes that are brought to life through three-dimensional visual effects through his pioneering knitwear craftsmanship. This collection uses heavily structured jacquard, print and embroidery, opening the doors to vintage aesthetics and creating classic contours of checks, stripes and diamonds.

A colour palette made up of grey, black, cream, navy, burgundy and khaki, creates a classic mix of winter hues. All the designs were made ready to come off the catwalk and into your wardrobe for the autumn/winter season.

 

The runway was accompanied by music from the award winning DJ Questionmark, playing music inspired by the theme of the collection “From Here To There”.

One of the ten designers shortlisted for the Vogue Italy New Talent Contest and named as one of GQ Taiwan’s Men of the year, Apu Jan proves year after year through his designs he is one to watch!

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

Chester Barrie, a modern Savile Row British menswear brand, showcased their AW17 collection at Smith & Wollensky. Most of the collection was modelled on mannequins, with a few male models at one end of the room casually showcasing the beautifully tailored designs. Canapés and drinks circled the room, whilst a small orchestra played in the corner, complementing the atmosphere effortlessly.

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If you're looking for a brand that has experience in ready-to-wear tailoring, Chester Barrie is the place to go. Founded in 1935 by Simon Ackerman, Chester Barrie took up their place on London’s Savile Row just two years later in 1937 and has been there ever since.

Classic tailoring, beautiful fabrics and fine attention to detail, are some of the traits that attract people to this brand. These traits are all seen in this collection from the tartan prints to the velvet detailing. Each piece had touches of uniqueness while holding onto the high quality design the brand is famous for.

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Attracting celebrities such as Dermot O’Leary, Darren Kennedy and Tom Daley, you know this AW17 collection from Chester Barrie is as much about style as it is quality.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

 

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GQ China presented XIMONLEE at London Fashion Week Men's for AW17. An ongoing collaboration for GQ China and LFWM, Ximon Lee joined an ever growing list of Chinese menswear brands to showcase their collections internationally. This collaboration highlights the importance of Chinese menswear in the global arena, as well as putting London at the heart of men’s fashion.

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Ximon Lee, a Berlin-based, Chinese born Korean designer, graduated from Parsons with the Best Menswear Designer Award in 2014. He was the first menswear designer to win the H&M Design Award in 2015 which spurred him to create his own line XIMONLEE. So yes, we can expect good things from this AW17 collection.

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Ximon approaches each season as a study, his AW17 collection was his third, named ‘Shame’. He started with the Chinese symbol of ‘shame’, which is a combination of the ‘beauty’ and ‘ugly’ Chinese symbols - this lending itself to the exploration of the lines between the conscious and unconscious.  This title also plays on material memories, whether the models are covered with tapered corsets hiding the body or more revealing cut away designs.

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A mixture of beaded embellishments, harnesses and cut out designs were walked down the runway for this collection. Made from velvet, sheer and leather materials in a colour palette of grey, black, dark green and rust, the clothing had a truly wintry feel.

This AW17 collection from Ximon Lee was a much anticipated one, and one that didn’t disappoint.

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Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot