Author: Andrea McCaul

The Ones to Watch show is always a treat! Hosted by Fashion Scout in Freemasons Hall, it is when the four winners of The Ones to Watch award for London Fashion Week AW19 showcase their winning collections – 1x1 Studio, Aurélie Fontan, Bowen Hu and Shie Lyu.

The panel for this prestigious award includes names such as Martyn Roberts – Fashion Scout’s Founder and Director, Costanze Lombardi – Next Gen Buyer at Browns, Kendal Robbins – Senior Programme Manager at British Council, Lizzy Bowring – Catwalk Director at WGSN and Scarlett Conlon – Deputy Fashion Editor at The Guardian. Gathering in November 2018 to make their selections, you can be assured they know what they are talking about.

 

1x1 Studio

A luxury menswear brand established in 2017, 1x1 Studio creates playful 3D textures in knitwear, focusing on craftmanship and creative knitting techniques. The label is currently working with Wei Yao Lin, who has an innate sensibility of materials and focuses on the visuals and silhouettes in the design.

Founded and lead by Taiwan born, London based Yi-Ling Kuo, a London College of Fashion graduate, 1x1 uses recycled materials and specialist yarn as well as their crafted knitting techniques in the hope of raising awareness of undiscovered territories. Priding themselves on rethinking strategies to reduce waste while designing and producing.

This AW19 collection looks back at the state-of-the-art technology from present to the 80s combined with the legend of Icarus to explain the relationship between human and technology. Not sure how they connect? Well, I’ll tell you! The idea of “don’t fly too close to the sun” from the story of Icarus, corresponds with the human attitude towards science and technology in real life situations. No matter if its now or in the 80s, people are always being reminded to not rely too much on the convenience brought by technology in daily life.

 

Aurélie Fontan

Aurélie Fontan is a Paris born, London based designer who launched her label in 2018. A sustainable fashion designer who focuses on bio-design and the circular economy. Fontan’s work represents the “techno-craft”concept, where eco-friendly luxury womenswear is produced from the latest technology and unconventional techniques.

Graduating from the Edinburgh College of Art, Fontan went on to have 6 nominations at Graduate Fashion Week, including three main awards in Womenswear, Sustainable and Ethical Catwalk Textiles and getting an additional award for the Micheal Kors Accessory Design Competition. The collection was engineered in a science lab with the help of grown yeast and bacteria, 100% biodegradable Kombucha - which she grew herself! 

This AW19 collection stands as a utopia for fashion of the future. Bringing in her passion for sustainability into the core, to create ethical and luxury clothing. Including a bio-designed dress made from bacteria and recycled material — linked together not through sewing but re-usable products that can be easily recycled! 

 

Bowen Hu

Bowen Hu is a New York based designer strongly influenced by her understanding of personality and psychology. Her collections are unisex with an innovative approach to texture, colour and silhouettes — with her ideas of design tending to psychologically or physically support the wearer and environment, and its interaction with the garment itself. 

Her AW19 collection ‘Lucid Dream’ is inspired by the world of the subconscious mind and brainwave patterns. For each design a dream analysis was taken, meaning each one represents the story of a personal dream. How beautiful is that? 

Hu is from China and studied at both Central Saint Martens and Parsons in New York. Her work has been seen in Vogue Italia, Paper Magazine, Trend Prive, Document Journal and more!

Shie Lyu

Shie Lyu was born in China and has lived in Sydney, Tokyo, New York and London which has all inspired her work, just as much as her 12 years travelling around the world. With a background in finance and accounting, she has a passion for meticulous construction and sculptural silhouettes — reminding her of the financial charts and mathematical models. 

In this collection Lyn plays the mathematician, using ‘formulas’ and ‘tools’ to create a new modern and romantic couture collection. Asking herself ‘what can a mathematician innovate in fashion?’ Using this to inspire her whole collection. 

Graduating from Parsons in New York, her graduate collection went on to showcase a NYFW and her collections have been featured in publications like Vogue Runway.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegalouise

 

Held in the Freemasons' Hall on Sunday early afternoon, A-Jane was a London Fashion Week show that got everyone talking. The models walked in one by one, moving around the stage posing for the big crowd of photographers as they did - the room was packed out and full of energy.

A-Jane for this collection focused on Neue Musik (new music), which is intended to create artistic inspiration and optimism, while challenging the traditional composition structure. With this in mind, A-Jane’s AW19 range broke design boundaries by beginning her collection with no lines, no paper and no preconceptions. The Neue Musik movement provides endless inspiration to designer Alice Jane and has allowed her ideas to flow freely and not ‘follow key’ - no pun intended!

Continuing this inspiration from creation to presentation, each model used various instruments, including (but not limited to) spoons, sand paper and glass chimes, to create clashing sounds and a feeling of chaos – something mirrored throughout each piece in this collection.

Emphasising the philosophy behind the Neue Musik movement – Alice is leading the way by not allowing her creativity to be restricted with strict lines, shapes or structures, instead opting for flowing silhouettes of waves and curves, for a sense of freedom.

Sticking with a primary colour palette, this collection is full of staples – from the oversized printed midi skirts and dresses to the high neck green jumpers and blue ruffled inserts, so you’ll fall for new shapes in the colours you know and love.

Words: Andrea McCaul| Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Eloise Peachey |Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeacheyphoto

London Fashion Week is where we get all our style tips - the place to wear the most fabulous outfits of the season while taking note of what to be wearing for the next!

So, now that the SS19 shows have come to an end we can take our eyes away from the catwalk and focus on what we spotted off the runway. Our favourites (to name a few) feature bursts of orange, wild prints, checks on checks, full on fringing and not forgetting 70s inspired florals. Whether you were flying solo or a power couple, serious coordination was key and caught our attention wherever we turned! You heard and saw it here first, these are the trends we'll be watching this autumn.

@lauren_hallworth
@laurenbannon1
@leopardprintelephant
@naomikisted
@triinuo
@sinyusiu
@lauren_hallworth
@adamsiddle1

@miss0liwia

@katiieewood

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeacheyphoto

 

Zio Song, a South Korean designer, presented his SONGZIO SS18 collection at London Fashion Week Men’s (180 The Strand). It was the first show of the day, kicking off at 9am, but it was one worth getting out of bed for. With a pyjama feel, appropriate for a morning show, this collection featured stripes that made you want to crawl back into your loungewear and your bed.

The collection was inspired by this single phrase, “Man, in his night, searches for his own light”. Male emotion is explored throughout the collection. The idea of accepting men’s emotions and feelings, something our society is talking about more and more, influenced every piece.




The colour palette consisted of blue, orange, red and grey. Bold and colourful striped jackets were mixed with muted white shirts. The stripes peaking through on linings of coats, and pinstripes creeping in too, on a series of tailored designs. Creating a clear theme throughout.

This SS18 collection incorporated canvas paintings from Song. Hand-painted these are added to the styles, showing a range of men painted on t-shirts and shirts alike.

A range as unique as ever, it breaks the mould in more ways than one.

Words: Andrea McCaul| Fashion Week Press |@andreaelizam

 

Freemasons Hall was home to a truly one of a kind presentation this season - Haluminous AW17. One not to be missed, this collection shows that just like life, clothing can be full of distress.

Haluminous is a Sydney based womenswear brand founded in 2016 by designer Hannah Kim. She has a reputation for creating highly embellished garments in youthful silhouettes, with a stand out SS17 collection already in tact.

For this collection the presentation started with a focus on just one model. In the middle of the room, surrounded by a circle of white lilies and candles, the model slowly bended and twisted her body, as eery music played in the background.

After a few moments you were completely transfixed, almost missing the models stumbling out. A real contrast from the norm at fashion week they shuffled around the circle, wearing garments made up of vibrant red and black hues. Shorts, socks, sliders, hoodies and dresses were all layered on top of each other creating unstructured silhouettes, complementing the feel of the presentation.

Whether the designs were finished with embroidery, embellishment or ruffles, each piece was unique, much like the collection in it’s entirety.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam

Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot