Author: Andrea McCaul

Apu Jan is the designer that brings knitwear dreams to life. A contemporary London based womenswear label, Apu Jan is rich in innovative knitwear techniques. Each and every season this designer creates a fantasy world, inspired by different literature. His AW17 collection “From Here To There”, is a visual journey through a collection of doors from this world to the other side of the universe.

Apu’s designs are shaped by traditional oriental silhouettes that are brought to life through three-dimensional visual effects through his pioneering knitwear craftsmanship. This collection uses heavily structured jacquard, print and embroidery, opening the doors to vintage aesthetics and creating classic contours of checks, stripes and diamonds.

A colour palette made up of grey, black, cream, navy, burgundy and khaki, creates a classic mix of winter hues. All the designs were made ready to come off the catwalk and into your wardrobe for the autumn/winter season.

 

The runway was accompanied by music from the award winning DJ Questionmark, playing music inspired by the theme of the collection “From Here To There”.

One of the ten designers shortlisted for the Vogue Italy New Talent Contest and named as one of GQ Taiwan’s Men of the year, Apu Jan proves year after year through his designs he is one to watch!

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

Chester Barrie, a modern Savile Row British menswear brand, showcased their AW17 collection at Smith & Wollensky. Most of the collection was modelled on mannequins, with a few male models at one end of the room casually showcasing the beautifully tailored designs. Canapés and drinks circled the room, whilst a small orchestra played in the corner, complementing the atmosphere effortlessly.

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If you're looking for a brand that has experience in ready-to-wear tailoring, Chester Barrie is the place to go. Founded in 1935 by Simon Ackerman, Chester Barrie took up their place on London’s Savile Row just two years later in 1937 and has been there ever since.

Classic tailoring, beautiful fabrics and fine attention to detail, are some of the traits that attract people to this brand. These traits are all seen in this collection from the tartan prints to the velvet detailing. Each piece had touches of uniqueness while holding onto the high quality design the brand is famous for.

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Attracting celebrities such as Dermot O’Leary, Darren Kennedy and Tom Daley, you know this AW17 collection from Chester Barrie is as much about style as it is quality.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

 

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GQ China presented XIMONLEE at London Fashion Week Men's for AW17. An ongoing collaboration for GQ China and LFWM, Ximon Lee joined an ever growing list of Chinese menswear brands to showcase their collections internationally. This collaboration highlights the importance of Chinese menswear in the global arena, as well as putting London at the heart of men’s fashion.

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Ximon Lee, a Berlin-based, Chinese born Korean designer, graduated from Parsons with the Best Menswear Designer Award in 2014. He was the first menswear designer to win the H&M Design Award in 2015 which spurred him to create his own line XIMONLEE. So yes, we can expect good things from this AW17 collection.

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Ximon approaches each season as a study, his AW17 collection was his third, named ‘Shame’. He started with the Chinese symbol of ‘shame’, which is a combination of the ‘beauty’ and ‘ugly’ Chinese symbols - this lending itself to the exploration of the lines between the conscious and unconscious.  This title also plays on material memories, whether the models are covered with tapered corsets hiding the body or more revealing cut away designs.

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A mixture of beaded embellishments, harnesses and cut out designs were walked down the runway for this collection. Made from velvet, sheer and leather materials in a colour palette of grey, black, dark green and rust, the clothing had a truly wintry feel.

This AW17 collection from Ximon Lee was a much anticipated one, and one that didn’t disappoint.

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Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

The Berthold presentation was held in a dark room and made up of a rotation of models walking down the catwalk, followed by five minutes of them standing in formation showcasing the collection.

The studio walls were covered by photographs of scratches, scars and stitches, whilst the floor of the catwalk was scattered with bottles creating the runway for the models, complementing the inspiration for this collection, named ‘Asylum’.

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The Berthold AW17 collection explores the rhythm of restriction. Wide, desolate hospital corridors and angular shadows inspired a larger, relaxed silhouette for both the tunics and winter coats. Some of the models emerged with thick, rough bandages wrapped around their heads, masking identities. Taut body gloves were worn over the wide leg trousers and the sportif jackets had elongated, exaggerated sleeves. Both the elbows on the bombers and skinny trousers were split open, creating a coherent look throughout.

The colour palette was a simple one, head to toe black, white and burgundy were the only three shades used. Fuzzy and crisped textures were taken from torn, soft leather and papers which created an aged finished to the clothing. Felted wools and pitted technical fabrics were paired with fluffy mohair and easy cotton suiting, creating a consistent feel throughout the collection, pulling the chosen three hues together effortlessly.

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Raimund Berthold is well known for his utilitarian use of colours and silhouettes free from defined shapes, this collection most certainly followed that theme.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

Malan Breton showcased his collection, titled Psyche, at Fashion Scout in Freemason Hall this season. Originating from Taipei, Taiwan Malan Breton founded his brand in 2005. His collections are shown each season at New York Fashion Week, while also being presented in New York, Taiwan, China, France and London to retailers.

Breton has been designing since the tender age of 11, he “is self taught and never went to design school”, now that is what you call talent!

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Both women and men stepped out on the runway to show London exactly what the Malan Breton brand had to offer across the board. Complementing each other effortlessly, the men and women walked out in pant suits, bold blazers and capes. Statement floral prints and heavily embellished beading head to toe made this collection one to be in awe of, with an original yet coordinated feel.

Something that struck me about this collection was how the models made as much of an impression walking away as they did walking in. If you’re looking for an outfit that is as striking from the back as it is from the front, this is the collection for you.

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Black, blue, red and dark green hues are contrasted with soft pinks, whites and creams. One of my favourite pieces being the floral print ruffled dress with a flowing trail, that followed the model walking down the catwalk so elegantly.

Something that made this show even more special was towards the finale a beautiful singer appeared performing 'Climb Every Moutain', shortly joined with Malan Breton himself.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam

Images: Mel Wills | Fashion Week Press | @mvw_photographer