Author: Andrea McCaul

Zio Song, a South Korean designer, presented his SONGZIO SS18 collection at London Fashion Week Men’s (180 The Strand). It was the first show of the day, kicking off at 9am, but it was one worth getting out of bed for. With a pyjama feel, appropriate for a morning show, this collection featured stripes that made you want to crawl back into your loungewear and your bed.

The collection was inspired by this single phrase, “Man, in his night, searches for his own light”. Male emotion is explored throughout the collection. The idea of accepting men’s emotions and feelings, something our society is talking about more and more, influenced every piece.




The colour palette consisted of blue, orange, red and grey. Bold and colourful striped jackets were mixed with muted white shirts. The stripes peaking through on linings of coats, and pinstripes creeping in too, on a series of tailored designs. Creating a clear theme throughout.

This SS18 collection incorporated canvas paintings from Song. Hand-painted these are added to the styles, showing a range of men painted on t-shirts and shirts alike.

A range as unique as ever, it breaks the mould in more ways than one.

Words: Andrea McCaul| Fashion Week Press |@andreaelizam

 

Freemasons Hall was home to a truly one of a kind presentation this season - Haluminous AW17. One not to be missed, this collection shows that just like life, clothing can be full of distress.

Haluminous is a Sydney based womenswear brand founded in 2016 by designer Hannah Kim. She has a reputation for creating highly embellished garments in youthful silhouettes, with a stand out SS17 collection already in tact.

For this collection the presentation started with a focus on just one model. In the middle of the room, surrounded by a circle of white lilies and candles, the model slowly bended and twisted her body, as eery music played in the background.

After a few moments you were completely transfixed, almost missing the models stumbling out. A real contrast from the norm at fashion week they shuffled around the circle, wearing garments made up of vibrant red and black hues. Shorts, socks, sliders, hoodies and dresses were all layered on top of each other creating unstructured silhouettes, complementing the feel of the presentation.

Whether the designs were finished with embroidery, embellishment or ruffles, each piece was unique, much like the collection in it’s entirety.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam

Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

Rohmir is celebrating 10 years in high fashion with her AW17 collection. Born of Russian nobility, Olga Roh began the Swiss luxury fashion brand in 2007 after studying for her masters at Istituto Marangoni in London and PhD at the University of Bern. Heavily influenced by her journeys around Europe, this range was dedicated to Spain.

Titled “El Castillo Secreto: A Magic Journey”, the catwalk started with a video that showcased part of this journey. The film showed models walking through beautiful countrysides and castle grounds, before the lights came up in the Freemason hall and the flamenco dancer came out. Dancing to the music he set the scene before the models joined him on the catwalk.

A luxurious baroque design in velvet, lace and chiffon fabrics alike made up a lot of the pieces, with flares, ruffled sleeves, dresses and capes all taking on this statement style. Not forgetting the mix of knitted, tasseled and sheer fabrics, that added charm throughout the collection.


Every aspect was thought of, from the pearl trim hats and roses hair clips to the flamenco inspired makeup, fitting into the theme of the collection effortlessly. The colour palette featured reds, golds and blacks, creating a real statement throughout.

This Spanish collection was truly special and the catwalk was like nothing you’d seen before, every detail faultlessly following the theme.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Jessamine Cera | Fashion Week Photographer | @jessamineceraphoto

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Theo VII Studios was co-founded by three designers; Miao Ho, Yui Ding and Tan Xue Yi in 2015 and works at breaking barriers between gender. The concept is to create a harmony between menswear and womenswear elements. This aesthetic of the label’s combination of womenswear and menswear was set because the co-founders are from womenswear and menswear respectively, so it only makes sense!

Their AW17 collections takes inspiration from Shamanism, an exercise that involved a practitioner reaching altered states of consciousness in order to interact with the spirit world, and then channeling these transcendental energies into the world.

A Shaman has access to, and influences in the world of both good and evil spirits, practicing divination and healing in order to help people around them.

Theo VII Studios was inspired by every aspect of the Shamans supernatural world, their dress, accessories, headwear, their rituals and rich cultural histories, which are all one of a kind. Each Shamans robe tells it’s own story, as they mark them to celebrate the knowledge they gain from each ritual they perform and every place they travel. Theo VII Studios explores all of this through their AW17 collection.

They use a combination of bright yellows, rich purples and blues set against pale pinks and creams to make up this unique collection. Every detail from the tassel trims to embellished socks show that all aspect have been carefully thought out and designed to perfection.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

Apu Jan is the designer that brings knitwear dreams to life. A contemporary London based womenswear label, Apu Jan is rich in innovative knitwear techniques. Each and every season this designer creates a fantasy world, inspired by different literature. His AW17 collection “From Here To There”, is a visual journey through a collection of doors from this world to the other side of the universe.

Apu’s designs are shaped by traditional oriental silhouettes that are brought to life through three-dimensional visual effects through his pioneering knitwear craftsmanship. This collection uses heavily structured jacquard, print and embroidery, opening the doors to vintage aesthetics and creating classic contours of checks, stripes and diamonds.

A colour palette made up of grey, black, cream, navy, burgundy and khaki, creates a classic mix of winter hues. All the designs were made ready to come off the catwalk and into your wardrobe for the autumn/winter season.

 

The runway was accompanied by music from the award winning DJ Questionmark, playing music inspired by the theme of the collection “From Here To There”.

One of the ten designers shortlisted for the Vogue Italy New Talent Contest and named as one of GQ Taiwan’s Men of the year, Apu Jan proves year after year through his designs he is one to watch!

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot